LIMON PROVINCE
Puerto Limon, Costa Rica
General Information:
Climate: Limón conjures
up images of Costa Rica's coconut-fringed Caribbean
coast. Although the province does indeed extend the
length of this coast -- from the mouth of the San Juan
River in the north, to the mouth of the Sixaola River
on the Panamanian border -- the southern sector includes
a large area of mountainous terrain that stretches up
to the country's highest peak, Mt. Chirripó,
in the Talamanca Cordillera. Likewise, the provincial
boundaries also climb to over 2,000 m. elevation on
the northeastern flank of Turrialba Volcano.
Despite the rise in elevation from sea level to 3,820
meters, Limón is the only one of Costa Rica's
seven provinces to be entirely on the Caribbean side
of the Continental Divide, and thus its weather is directly
affected by the flow of warm, moist air brought in off
this body of water by the northeast trade winds. The
result is a climate with no pronounced dry season, even
though it does tend to be less rainy in the months of
March, April, September, and October, and typically
rains the most in June, July, August, November, and
December. The lowland regions remain warm and humid
year-round, while the higher portions are both cooler
and wetter.
History: Christopher Columbus,
or Cristobal Colón as he is known in Spanish,
and his crew were the first Europeans to lay eyes on
the shores and forest-covered mountains of Costa Rica.
On the great Admiral's fourth and final voyage to the
Americas, in 1502, he anchored near what is now the
port city and provincial capital of Limón. His
brief dealings with the native people he met on the
mainland were apparently good-natured, yet this benevolent
interaction was not to be the norm during the centuries
to come.
Spanish settlement of Costa Rica came not from the Atlantic
but from the Pacific side of the country. Given the
mountainous barrier between the Central Valley and the
Caribbean lowlands, as well as the dense forests and
high rainfall characteristic of the latter region, would-be
colonists were faced with a real challenge. The periodic
expeditions organized with, at least in part, the purpose
of establishing permanent settlements in the Caribbean
region inevitably met with failure. Their cruel treatment
of the indigenous people did not help the Spaniards
in their objective either, since the natives in the
area wholeheartedly resisted colonization.
Thus, throughout the three centuries of the colonial
period, while the Central Valley and northern Pacific
portions of Costa Rica were being progressively dominated
by settlers from Spain, the Atlantic wilderness continued
to be an untamed frontier. Puerto Limon Costa Rica
The one small exception was the
Valley of Matina where a number of farms existed for
the purpose of growing cacao -- the source of cocoa
and chocolate, which are produced from the seeds. Although
it was a long and difficult journey from the Central
Valley to Matina, near the Caribbean coast, the merchants
from Cartago who invested in the cacao farms considered
it a worthy enterprise given the otherwise limited opportunities
for commercial trade with other colonies. Puerto Limon
Costa Rica
Originally, the farms were worked
by native people who had been captured and put into
slavery. This system met with problems, including legal
ones because the authorities officially forbid such
treatment of the native population. The solution was
the purchase of African slaves from elsewhere in the
region. Each worker was given a certain number of plants
to tend, and often, after several years service, was
given his freedom.
This agricultural activity persisted for about 150 years,
but never really contributed significantly to the country's
economic progress, and by the time of independence from
Spain in 1821 had been all but abandoned. It is interesting
to note that owing to the scarcity of coinage in colonial
times, cacao beans were sometimes used in lieu of currency,
or as a basis for bartering. Puerto Limon Costa Rica
The real opening of Costa Rica's
eastern frontier did not come until the second half
of the 19th century. In 1867, the site for a Caribbean
port was chosen, and it is said that growing on the
spot was an old lemon tree, or limón. Puerto
Limon Costa Rica
To make the port accessible from
the interior of the country, the government decided
to construct a railroad and contracted the services
of the North American entrepreneur, Minor Keith, in
exchange for 300,000 hectares of land in the Caribbean
lowlands, plus other benefits. Puerto Limon Costa Rica
Keith established banana plantations
on the land and brought in Afro-American workers from
Jamaica to tend the plantations and build the railroad,
thus changing not only the physical environment -- which
for thousands of years had been rain forest -- but also
the cultural milieu of the region.
Other Points of Interest: Puerto Limon Costa Rica
1) Canals north of Limón:
The so-called Canales de Tortuguero are the result of
a dredging operation carried out in the 1960's to link
a series of naturally occurring lagoons and river courses,
thus permitting inland navigation between the city of
Limón and the northeastern coastal villages.
Prior to the opening of the canal in 1969, transportation
of people and products to and from these villages was
in dugout vessels that ventured out the river mouths
to the open sea and then up or down the coast. The risk
inherent in this method of transportation was greatly
reduced once the canal system became functional.
With the growing numbers of tourists interested in visiting
Tortuguero National Park, this route has become increasingly
more transited, yet it still retains much of its scenic
quality. Shortly after leaving the dock at Moín,
you pass through one of the few mangrove areas to be
found on the Caribbean side of the country. The red
mangroves here are impressive with their prop roots
dropping sometimes from five meters or more above the
water level and the overall heights of the trees reaching
to over 15 meters. Both here and along the length of
the waterway system you can observe a variety of birds
that live in association with riverine habitats, including
herons, egrets, kingfishers, ospreys, jacanas, cormorants,
and anhingas.
Between the mangrove section and the start of the national
park, nearly 50 km. further north, there is not much
intact forest left along the canal. However, you can
observe the lifestyle of the inhabitants along the way
and try to spot sloths and iguanas in any places where
there are still trees.
2) KéköLdi Indigenous
Reserve: Costa Rica's indigenous population is relatively
small and disperse. The Talamanca mountains provided
the last refuge for the native people from the relentless
advances of western colonization and it is here that
the greatest number of reservations have been established.
Most of the reserves are still not readily accessible
or set up to attend to tourists. However, with prior
permission obtained at the ATEC (Talamanca Association
for Ecotourism and Conservation) office in Puerto Viejo,
a guided visit can be arranged to the KéköLdi
Reserve. Puerto Limon Costa Rica
A morning walk through a portion of this small reserve
is an enlightening experience as you learn about native
lifestyles, customs, and beliefs. The two indigenous
groups, Bribri and Cabecar, that live in the reserve
are descendants of people who have lived in this rain
forest region for thousands of years and have developed
an environmentally sound approach to life in such conditions.
Their way of life in harmony with nature provides a
sharp contrast to the bulldozer and chainsaw mentality
so evident outside the reserve. Puerto Limon Costa Rica
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